The wines of Portugal: a sommelier's tour from Vinho Verde to the Azores

Portugal is a small country with a long list of grapes you won't find anywhere else, and wines that run from light, fresh Vinho Verde to Port and Madeira. For a sommelier student it is one of the most rewarding countries to learn: a few names unlock most of the wine list. Here is the tour, north to south, then out to the islands.

Portugal in one minute

• Where: the west of the Iberian Peninsula, with Spain to the north and east and the Atlantic to the west and south.
• Climate: cool and wet near the Atlantic in the north-west, hotter and drier inland and in the south. Mountains such as the Serra do Marão shelter the Douro from Atlantic rain.
• History: the Douro was demarcated in 1756, one of the earliest wine regions in the world to have legal borders.
• Famous for: Port and Madeira, and mostly native grapes, often blended, many with Spanish twins under other names.

How Portuguese wine is classified

• DOP, shown on labels as DOC (Denominação de Origem Controlada): the strictest level, tied to a defined region with its own rules on grapes, yields and production.
• IGP, shown as Vinho Regional: a wider region, with at least 85% of the grapes from that region and more freedom of grapes.
• Vinho: wine with no geographical indication.

Label terms to know: Colheita (vintage, the year of harvest), Quinta (an estate, a word used mostly in the north), Reserva (a superior wine, certified by the regional body), Grande Reserva and Garrafeira (both explained below).

The grapes to know

The regions, north to south

• Vinho Verde (the north-west, called Minho for its regional wines): green, rainy and Atlantic. Fresh, aromatic whites from Alvarinho, Loureiro and Arinto, some with a gentle sparkle; also reds from Vinhão, and sparkling wine. Alvarinho is the speciality of the Monção e Melgaço sub-region.
• Douro: a steep river valley of schist terraces, hot and dry in summer. Home of Port, and of powerful dry reds and fresh whites. More below.
• Dão: ringed by mountains, with vineyards among pine forests on poor granite soils. Elegant reds that age well, from Touriga Nacional, Jaen, Alfrocheiro and Tinta Roriz, and fine whites from Encruzado.
• Bairrada: flat and close to the Atlantic, on clay-limestone. Firm, tannic reds from Baga, whites from Fernão Pires and Bical, and a long tradition of sparkling wine.
• Lisboa: two small appellations to know. Colares, with Ramisco vines planted in sand by the sea, and Bucelas, white wines from Arinto.
• Península de Setúbal: the home of Moscatel de Setúbal, a sweet fortified Muscat, and of Castelão reds from Palmela.
• Alentejo: the hot, dry south. Ripe, generous reds from Aragonez, Trincadeira and Alicante Bouschet; whites from Antão Vaz, Arinto and Roupeiro.
• Madeira: a steep volcanic island in the Atlantic. Fortified Madeira, from dry (Sercial) to sweet (Malvasia, or Malmsey).
• Açores (the Azores): volcanic islands far out in the Atlantic. More below.

Going deeper 1: Douro table wines

For centuries the Douro meant Port. Today its dry wines are just as serious. The reds are blends of the Port grapes, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca and Tinto Cão: deep, dark-fruited and firm. The whites come from Rabigato, Viosinho, Gouveio and Malvasia Fina.

• The landmark: Barca Velha, first made in 1952 by Fernando Nicolau de Almeida for Casa Ferreirinha, and released only in exceptional years.
• Names to know today: Quinta do Crasto, Quinta do Vallado and Niepoort, all known for Port and for dry Douro wines.
• The three sub-regions: Baixo Corgo in the west is the coolest and wettest; Cima Corgo, around Pinhão, is the heart of the region; Douro Superior, towards Spain, is the hottest and driest.

Exam note: the Court of Master Sommeliers' syllabus puts Douro table-wine producers at Master level. For Level 1, know the grapes, the schist and the three sub-regions.

Going deeper 2: Garrafeira

Garrafeira is an official Portuguese term for a DOC or Vinho Regional wine from a stated harvest that meets minimum ageing rules. Wines of Portugal sets them out like this:

• Red Garrafeira: at least 30 months of ageing, with at least 12 months in bottle.
• White and rosé Garrafeira: at least 12 months, with at least 6 months in bottle.
• Always with a vintage: the harvest year must be on the label.

The word comes from garrafa, bottle: think of it as a wine the producer has kept back in the cellar. Exam note: the Court's syllabus asks for Garrafeira and Reserva ageing rules at the Advanced level, but it is a good term to recognise from Level 1.

Going deeper 3: the Azores

• Three appellations: Pico, Biscoitos on the island of Terceira, and Graciosa.
• Vines in stone pens: vines grow inside currais, small plots walled with black volcanic stone that shelter them from wind and sea spray and release the day's heat at night.
• World Heritage: the Landscape of the Pico Island Vineyard Culture was listed by UNESCO in 2004.
• Grapes: mainly Verdelho, Arinto and Terrantez, on poor volcanic soils, in a mild, very wet Atlantic climate.
• Wines: fresh, mineral dry whites, and fortified wines with striking acidity.

Taste Portugal at home

• A Vinho Verde Alvarinho: fresh, citrus and stone fruit. With grilled fish or seafood.
• A Dão red: Touriga Nacional's floral perfume in an elegant frame. With roast meats.
• A Douro red: darker and fuller. With a steak or a stew.
• A 10 Year Old tawny Port: nuts and caramel, slightly chilled. See my guide to choosing a Taylor's Port.

Quick quiz: Portugal

Studying for the exam? My Portugal cheat sheet for the Introductory Sommelier exam follows the Court's syllabus heading by heading. Then take the Level 1 practice test, or let SOMM DIGI AI quiz you on Portugal: 3,000+ exam-prep questions, free to start.

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