Gavi: Piedmont's white wine, and what Gavi di Gavi means

The short answer: Gavi is a dry white wine from south-east Piedmont, in north-west Italy, made from 100% Cortese grapes. It is fresh, light to medium in body, with citrus, green apple, white flowers and a hint of bitter almond. It is a DOCG, Italy's top tier, and “Gavi di Gavi” means the grapes come from the commune of Gavi itself.

Gavi in one minute

• Where: 11 communes in the province of Alessandria, Piedmont, between the Ligurian Apennines and the plain, about 30 km from the sea.
• Grape: Cortese, and only Cortese.
• Status: DOC in 1974, DOCG in 1998. The label says “Gavi” or “Cortese di Gavi”.
• Style: mostly still and dry; also frizzante, spumante, Riserva and Riserva spumante metodo classico.
• Drink: most Gavi young and fresh; Riserva and the best single sites keep for several years.

What Gavi tastes like

Pale straw, often with green glints. On the nose: fresh fruit, white flowers, citrus and that typical bitter almond at the end. In the mouth it is dry, crisp and clean, never heavy. With a few years in bottle it gains mineral notes and more depth. Think of it as Italy's answer to a Chablis or a Muscadet: a white that makes food taste better.

What “Gavi di Gavi” means

The Gavi DOCG covers 11 communes: Bosio, Capriata d'Orba, Carrosio, Francavilla Bisio, Gavi, Novi Ligure, Parodi Ligure, Pasturana, San Cristoforo, Serravalle Scrivia and Tassarolo. When all the grapes come from the commune of Gavi, the label can say Gavi del Comune di Gavi, which people shorten to Gavi di Gavi. It is a statement of place, not a higher grade, though many of the best-known bottles carry it.

You will also see Gavi dei Gavi, with “dei”. That is a brand name of one producer, La Scolca, for its famous black-label wine, not a separate category.

The soils, and why they matter

• North (towards Tassarolo and Novi Ligure): red soils of gravel and clay from old river deposits. Softer, rounder wines.
• Centre (Serravalle Scrivia to Gavi and San Cristoforo): alternating marls and sandstones.
• South: white clay marls, which the Consorzio calls particularly suited to Cortese. Tauter, more mineral wines.

A little history

For centuries this hill country belonged to Genoa, and Genoa's great families built summer houses here. The first specialised Cortese vineyards were planted from 1856, on the Marquis Cambiaso's estates La Centuriona and La Toledana. Gavi became a DOC in 1974 and a DOCG in 1998. That Genoese link still shows on the table: Gavi is the natural partner of Ligurian food.

Producers to know

Prices sit mostly in the mid-range; Riserva and top single sites are premium. Choose a recent vintage for the classic fresh style.

Gavi with food

• Ligurian classics: trofie or trenette with pesto, focaccia, fritto misto.
• Seafood: oysters, grilled white fish, prawns, seafood risotto.
• Piedmont: vitello tonnato, a perfect match.
• Everyday: salads, goat's cheese, sushi.
• Sparkling Gavi: an aperitivo with olives and light antipasti.

Serve it well chilled in a universal glass. For more on Italian label words, see Italian wine terms. Planning a dinner? Ask SOMM DIGI AI to match a Gavi to your menu.

Questions people ask